Exploring the Zemplen Mountains in Northeastern Hungary

My great-grandfather was born in a Hungarian village called Hejce, nestled in the foothills of the Zemplen mountains. With a population of 163, it's a quiet place to spend a few days, especially during the all-saints holiday, when I went to hike in the surrounding mountains.

The fall leaves were at their peak, and the views stunning. With my trusty trail map I went out each day with what little food I'd brought or managed to buy in the village. Everything in the village was shuttered, except for the 'kocsma' or bar, which apparently never really closes. There I could procure a few basic staples from the adjoining shop, or refuel on beer, snacks and palinka, Hungary's potent clear liquor, after my all-day hikes.

Memorial to the 2006 Slovak military plane crash.

A fantastic limestone climbing rock near Hejce.

Numerous trails weave their way through the mountains, the most notable being the National Blue Trail (Országos Kéktúra), which crosses the entire northern part of the country east to west, connecting the low mountains which dot northern Hungary. Another interesting trail which passes near to Hejce is the Saint Elizabeth Pilgrimage trail (Szent Erzsébet Zarándokút), which connects Sarospatak to the city of Kosice (Kassa) across the border in Slovakia.

A hunter's hut in the forest

Back in town, All Saint's Eve, or Halloween was in full gear, with action centered around the cemetery. On this night, flowers and candles are brought to the grave sites of deceased relatives to be remembered. It's an eerie feast of lights in the dusk of the long autumn evening.